Wednesday, February 10, 2010

The Food of a Younger Land

I am just now finishing Kurlansky's book that is the title of this blog post.  This book must be in every culinary library around the U.S.  It is based on some literary work that was done as part of the Works Progress Administration (WPA) that built national parks, museums, zoos, and other public project works in the 1930's.  Unknown to many was the Federal Writers' Project that was part of the WPA, which was charged with conceiveing books, assigning them to huge, unwieldy teams of out-of-work and want-to-be writers around the country, and editing and publishing them.  For the most part, lots of guide books on America were published as a result of this initiative.

However, another project emerged in those days and was proposed by a Katherine Kellock to come up with a book that catalogued the varied food and eating traditions throughout America; a veritable examination of what and how Americans ate at the turn of the 20th century.  What survived from the project, as uncovered by Kurlansky is a wonderful book that captures the regional -- truly regional -- cusines of the Northeast, South, Middle West, Far West, and Southwest Eats.  In each section of the book is a collection from each region of essays on eating traditions, and recipes, often in the language used back in the day.  And as you read along you learn of the origins of hush puppies, the difference between a jonny cake (no "h") and ash cake (and countless other "cakes"), oyster roasts, possum recipes (which is an Indian word from opossum, for white animal), a recipe for son-of-a-bitch and much much more.  I don't think I have enjoyed a book as much as this one and highly recommend it to those reading the blog.

Kurlansky has done a wonderful job retrieving so many old literary works that tell the story of regional American cuisine and know that culinary arts and hospitality educators will like it, too.  If you do get it and read it please let me know what you think and I will post your comments on the blog.

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